Wastegate Repair & Manifold Worries

A while ago now, I picked up a genuine TiAL wastegate fairly cheaply. This was because one of the bolts used to attach it to the screamer had snapped when the previous owner had attempted to remove it from their car.

I figured it wouldn’t be too difficult to repair, and started the process by winding on two nuts before nipping them together as tight as I could.

I then took a can of air, tipped it upside down and squirted it towards the broken bolt. This flash cools the component, shrinking it, and hopefully making it easier to remove. A trick I picked up from watching the AvE YouTube Channel.

I then turned the lower of the two nuts, and a little bit of force free’d the broken bolt. The threads were a little chewed up, but I was able to wind in, and importantly nip up a new M8 bolt, so there’s no need to drill and tap to a larger size.

With the wastegate sorted, I turned my attention to the exhaust manifold. When bolting it up to the engine, I noticed it seemed a little warped on the mating surface to the head. The 4efte head has a habit of cracking where the #4 cylinder manifold stud goes. I decided to try and figure out just how bad it is, and from my crude measurements, it’s pretty bad.

I don’t have a “flat” surface to check, but an engineers ruler and a light shining behind it goes so far to prove my concerns. It’s made my mind up that I’ll pay someone to flatten it for me. Perhaps I’m being pedantic, but having paid a decent amount of money for this kit, the fit and finish is pretty sub par. Along with this, I can’t fit the downpipe to my turbo because the tolerances are so tight the studs on the turbo wont go through the holes. There is also the worry about how close the screamer pipe and wastegate are to the top radiator hose.

Frustrating, but experience has taught me, “bolt-on” aftermarket parts have a habit of being not so when it comes to actually bolting them on. It’s all part of the process.


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