It has been a while

Cadwell came and went without much drama, camping was good fun, and I introduced Lucy to Track Days, she really enjoyed herself. Thanks to everyone who made her feel welcome, especially the lady Pinders.

A couple of things I needed to sort before the next day out were a pretty bad vibration under heavy braking, and the oil leak which continued. The car laid up for the rest of the summer, after that, collected dust mainly.

I had always wanted to do Donington in the car, discounting Blyton Park it’s my local track, and a place I know my way around. The last time I was there in my own car was 2012, maybe 2011, I can’t remember, it would turn out to be the Pulsars last track time before it got stolen. Anyway, Open Track listed a day and a few of us on here had booked on, which meant I had some Starlet related work to do.

First things first, that oil leak. After stripping everything down and cleaning it up, I couldn’t find a leak anywhere, very, very frustrating. But confident this thing really wasn’t a big deal I bolted everything back up, and would keep an eye on it.

Next up, the brakes. I asked on here for advice on tracking down what I thought were OE discs that are sold as part of a brake kit for the Starlet. A money saving exercise, but it also meant I could find parts for the kit should the company the makes them suddenly decide to stop supporting the car. Narrowing them down to Yaris discs, I took a small leap of faith and ordered some fancy J hook ones from MTEC. The idea here was that the drooves would clear any debris that might cause vibration, they look pretty neat too. I also fitted a new set of DS1.11 pads at the same time.

Previously I’ve spoken about controlling a boost solenoid using the extra injector map of my ECU. Whilst boost control isn’t what that map table was designed for, an injector is just a solenoid that controls fuel, so it should work just fine. It was my intention to configure this at Donington rather than relying on just the actuator, so with that I set about adjusting the actuator arm to lower base boost, I adjusted with an aim to hit ~ .5bar or 7psi.

I then ordered the bits necessary to produce a data cable for my ECU. This just consists of a USB cable, and USB TTL adapter. It’s basically a serial cable, but because my laptop doesn’t have a serial port, we use USB to emulate it.


(http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-greddy-emanage-cable-from-scratch/)

Finally, I made a small bracket to help brace my GoPro mount, a thin piece of aluminium shaped and bent into place would help, but my videos from Donington would suggest it needs to be braced for left and right as well as for and aft.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s