First Drive

This last weekend was quite momentous, I actually got to drive my car. The first time I’d operated it properly since the 18th of August 2013. I nervously drove up and down the quiet industrial estate lane a couple of times before retiring the car back inside the unit to check for leaks.

For the most part all was well, but I’m still not convinced about one of the oil cooler fittings. A replacement turned up in the post today, so hopefully that will cure it once and for all. The oil cooler saga is alive and well, I daren’t tally up the cost of it, shocking.

One of the jobs on my list of things to do before mapping was secure the fuel filter, there are a few solutions to this. Often involving a rather expensive aluminum mount, and not being one for engine bay bling I decided against that. In the end settling for a large rubber lined p-clip, seems to do as good a job as anything else.

Next up was wiring the boost solenoid, which I started to do on Sunday afternoon. Sunday was one of those days, and this is as far as I got.

I’ll revisit that next week I think. I also need to address my air filter issues, I ordered the smallest ITG filter, rated to 200hp, apparently. Anyway, it fits, just.

Just waiting for a few bits so I can finish plumbing it in. That will have to wait until next weekend, as I’m away for the Nurgburgring 24 hour race as of tomorrow, fun times!


First start

Yay for progress!

Last weekend I hit a couple of road blocks with my fuel hoses, I also went and had my oil hoses pressure tested. They all passed, and I was sent on my way with a better solution for my fuel hose too. Armed with this, my goal for this weekend was to get the car started and run up to temperature.

This was about as much as I got done last weekend.

Fuel lines secured to the car, hopefully protected by chassis rails as well.

The main problem I had last weekend was the solution I’d been given for connecting the main in-tank fuel feed to my new hose. The standard fuel tank feed has a metric fitting and flared pipe, I was given this as a solution:

Basically a bulk-head connection, and some weird sleeve type setup. For one it physically wouldn’t fit, and I was convinced it wouldn’t seal. The new local hose place agreed, and gave me a compression type fitting which would replace the standard metric stuff. Anyway, it worked, and fits nicely, yay!

The starlet has a little ‘Diagnostics’ port in the engine bay, you can use it for checking error codes in the ECU for example. Join two of pins together with a bit of wire, and the ECU light will flash in varying sequences, different flashes mean different things. Anyway, if you short two other pins you can test the fuel system, as it makes the fuel pump(s) run. This was handy for getting the fuel system up to pressure and checking for leaks.

The result, no leaks. So far, so good.

With that done I got on with the oil side of things, fitting my pressure switch take off and reattaching the oil lines for my cooler. I then pulled the plugs so I could turn the car over to build some oil pressure, I did this a couple of times for 10 seconds and the oil light didn’t go off, the needle on my pressure gauge didn’t move either, hmm. After some reading, I tried for 30 seconds, and all of a sudden, oil pressure, no leaks either.

Here are 3 of the plugs, they all looked like this, rich?

I bought a T piece for my oil pressure sensors, this is attached to a length of braided hose which goes into the block where the original sensor used to live. It’s a little tight for space around the original pressure sensor location, so this made sense.

Next up was to find a home, and to plumb in my MAC boost solenoid, I popped it on the drivers side next to the turbo. Just need to wire this to my ECU now, and hopefully I’ll have RPM based boost control.

Next, I plonked the radiator in and filled it with coolant.

The engine bay looks a little bit different to how it was when I bought it..

I’m in two minds about re-fitting the standard strut brace, I don’t see it having any benefit, but I could be wrong.

Anyway, I digress..

With everything now fitted, I grabbed a fire extinguisher and turned the key

Nothing too exciting, thankfully. I was able to get the car up to temperature and make sure the fan kicked in before it ran out of fuel.

I found a couple of leaks, one was from me not tightening a jubilee clip on the radiator hose. The other, an oil line I don’t think I’d tightened enough. But everything was so hot I couldn’t get in to tighten it up, I’ll do that the next time I’m working on the car.

So, a couple of little things left to finish before it’s ready to be driven for reals and taken to by mapped.

– Air filter
– Wire boost solenoid and check it’s working
– Tidy wiring up inside for gauges
– Secure fuel filter

I’ve got a few others bit to sort before it’s first outing, like new brake pads and a tow strap, etc.


For reference.

Hi Guys,

I’ve had an enquiry as to how I’ve used my E-manage Blue/Ultimate as an Electronic Boost Controller. The E-manage should be able to control as well as any EBC, but will most likely require a little bit of tweaking in order to get it working perfectly. There is a little bit more involvement then some stand alone EBC’s, but you have the benefit of accurate and possibly finer control along with the opportunity to control the amount of boost at different RPM and how the boost comes ‘on’

The E-manage units have an ‘Additional Injector Map’ which is available for driving one or two additional injectors to provide more fuel to the engine. Not many people employ this as a function so it leaves the possibility for the map to be used for another function – in this case as an EBC. You can use a small circuit modify the output to become a switched ON-OFF output to control other devices also, but I won’t be going in to that here.

In order to use this output as an EBC, you will also need a ‘duty’ rated 3-port boost control solenoid and tube, some wire, and a fused 12volt ignition feed.

Boost Solenoid Connection: – Most aftermarket 3-port solenoid valves will be suitable, MAC, Apexi, HKS, Haltec etc, so long as they have a coil resistance of 15 OHMS and greater. Any less then 15 OHMS will require a drop down resistor in order to not damage the injector drivers inside the E-manage.

Connect the NO port on the solenoid valve to the compressor housing feed and the COM port to the Wastegate actuator. The NC port should vent to atmo.

We do it like this so when the solenoid is unpowered or if it electrically fails, the wastegate will see boost pressure and failsafe back to STD boost.

Electrical Connection and Jumper Settings: – We will be using one of the Additional Injector Output wires to feed one side of the Boost Solenoid (the negative ‘-ve’ or black if your wires are marked). The other side of the Solenoid is connected to a fused ignition switched 12 volt source. Using a 5-10A fuse here will be sufficient and protect the wiring and E-manage.

Internally in the E-manage you will also need to connect some ‘Jumpers’. JP5 and JP6 will need to be changed from ‘OPEN’ to Closed, so the little black jumpers are joining pins 1 and 2.

Map Adjustment: – Once the boost set-point in chosen we can set up a base map in order to fine tune the boost control.

The settings will depend on how you have the Boost Solenoid plumbed in and also, what you want your boost set-point to be.

The Additional Injector Map can be referenced to the factory MAP sensor or the GReddy 3-Bar unit against RPM. You can adjust the axis to suit your points having minimal space between no boost and smaller increments around your set-point boost you will be able to control the boost more accurately. For each of the ‘cells’ you can set a figure between 0-100% which is the percentage amount that the wastegate will see of the compressor outlet pressure. The frequency (sometimes called ‘gain’ on other EBC’s) of the switching is dependant on RPM in this case and increases as the RPM increases.

With the Set point chosen, in my case above, you can see it’s set to start to open at 140kPa (20.3psi) and reduces the duty down to 0% at 150kPa (21.7psi). What this means is that up until 20.3psi the solenoid is stopping any boost being fed to the wastegate actuator, but starts to open after this and if the boost still climbs to 21.7psi the actuator is seeing full boost pressure from the compressor housing and should drop the boost pressure back down as the wastegate bleeds off exhaust around the turbo’s. Ideally with the correct settings it is possible to get the boost to climb rapidly and then sit steadily between the 20.3psi and 21.7psi set points. I have not tried these with the standard turbo’s yet and do not suggest you copy the figures in my map, they are just to show how I went about setting my points.

You will also note that I have the bottom two rows set at 0%, this is to stop the annoying click of the solenoid when idling and normal driving where you are not boosting. You could quiet comfortably set these even higher then I have and instead of having a large block of 100% cells, could expand the axis around the boost set-point for finer resolution in this area.

You may also note I have some 95% cells at 3500/3600RPM this is to catch the spike that might occur with the boost ramping hard when the second turbo comes on-line.

I’d also suggest changing the columns with the boost control starting at approx 3200RPM with the STD twins as this is the ECU changeover point

In all a pretty powerful EBC in that you can set different boost for different RPM etc and it should work great once you’ve done some basic tweaking re duty cycles etc it will control the boost perfectly.